Saturday, August 15, 2015

i. Nishi-Tomatsu Susano Shrine (西富松 須佐男神社) or "Ibarakidoji" Part 1

Location: Mukonoso-Higashi (near Mukonoso Stn., Hankyu Line) Amagasaki City; 15 min. from Osaka or 20 min. from Kobe + 7 min. walking time

Associated with: The legend of Ibarakidoji

This site is connected to one version of the origin of the demon Ibarakidoji. According to this account he was born in Tomatsu, which was once a part of Settsu province but is now located in present-day Amagasaki city. Nishi-Tomatsu Susano Shrine is a remnant of old Tomatsu and associates itself with the local legend.
Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

According to the shrine's website, the demon child was born in Tomatsu but later abandoned about 12 miles west in the village of Ibaraki. Not to be completely forgotten, the shrine recounts the rather dubious tale of how later in life Ibarakidoji returns to Tomatsu when he discovers his parents have taken ill. The shock of his return causes them to miraculously recover, and they all celebrate with sweet dumplings.

Not surprisingly the shrine has a sweet dumpling festival. It's held on September 1. They hold another customary festival on October 16.
Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus

Comments: This is a local shrine no different to the dozens of other local shrines you are bound to encounter. If you find its folkloric significance appealing, then providing its on your way to another destination (I currently don't have any suggestions) it would not be a particularly costly or timely detour.

Getting There

The starting point on the Midosuji subway line is Umeda Stn. Our destination is Mukonoso Stn. on the Hankyu Line.

Subway Umeda Stn. lies next to other stations, also called Umeda, operated by two train companies: Hankyu and Hanshin. From subway Umeda Stn. (or Osaka Stn. if you've come via JR), follow the signs directing you to the Hankyu Line. There are a few lines that leave from Hankyu Umeda, and Mukonoso is on the Kobe Main Line. It's a local stop (except the "Commutation Express" that runs mornings and evenings on weekdays), so if you get on anything faster you're going to shoot past it. From Umeda, it's six stops to Mukonoso. The first stop after departing Umeda is Nakatsu (Hankyu) and the stop just before Mukonoso is Tsukaguchi. The first stop after Mukonoso is Nishinomiya-Kitaguchi... if you see or pass that, you've gone too far.

Getting Your Bearings at Mukonoso Station

To get to the shrine you need to go out the north exit. If you've come from Osaka, the train will deposit you on the south side of the station, so don't leave the station from the same platform you got off at. You need to go up the platform stairs and along the walkway to the exit on the platform on the opposite side. Now you just need to follow the map:

Map courtesy of Google Maps

The star on the map is the last turnoff on the approach to the shrine. It's also the closest you can get on Google Streetview. The road here is gravel and there is a bollard in the center to prevent cars from entering. At this corner there is also a red mail box and a neighborhood bulletin board.
 Photo Credit: Gragma's Yokai Tourbus


Driver Gragma (yokaitourbus "at" mail "dot" com)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yokaitourbus/

The Master List (Hyogo):
http://yokaitourbus.blogspot.jp/2015/08/6-b-master-list-hyogo.html

(yokai) Ibarakidoji (茨木童子)
Site: Nishi-Tomatsu Susano Shrine (西富松 須佐男神社)
Nearest Station: (Hankyu Line) Mukonoso Stn. (武庫之荘駅)
Google Map Search: NA

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